February 5, 2008

Italian beef farmers to raise Japanese cows and boost dwindling demand

Some farmers in Italy are raising the Japanese Wagyu cows to boost falling beef consumption in the area.

The farmers aim to entice consumers with the world's most expensive Kobe steaks. Kobe, which is situated in Osaka bay, has been making inroads in Italy even though it costs about EUR100 (US$148.2) per kilogramme, twice the price of Italy's Fiorentina T-bone steaks from Chianina cows.

The first Wagyu calves to be born in Italy are on a farm just south of Milan and are about a month old.

The calves will be meticulously reared and coddled for 2-3 years, with massages and diet including beer to give them the marble-like meat texture.

Fausto Cremonesi, veterinary professor at Milan's Universita degli Studi and the brain behind the plan to raise Wagyu cows in Italy, said the project could boost farmers' dwindling profits by pumping up demand.

Cremonesi said Kobe beef is low cholesterol, rich in antioxidants and its fat is easy to digest.

Farmers and veterinarians involved in the pilot project to breed Wagyu cows, costing EUR42,000 (US$62,000), in Italy believe it will pay off as a grown Wagyu cow may sell for about 100 times more than a local one.

Beef consumption in Italy has declined in the past few years after a mad cow disease scare and has fallen 4.2 percent in the first 10 months of 2007.

Farmers aim to have a Wagyu herd of about 200 cows in Italy in a few years, said Ernesto Beretta, a veterinary researcher who works on the project for Coldiretti.